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Charleston Wine + Food

Tasting Notes


What is a Southern Renaissance?

I don’t want my iron skillet to become an artifact. Relegated to the back of the cabinet with a seldom used Bundt pan, a forgotten Jello mold, and my avocado green fondue pot.

Times change and the notions of what is essential in the kitchen do too.  And, there they sit, in the dark, waiting for their moment to roll around again or more likely to get carted off to the thrift store.

Every time I hear the phrase “traditional Southern cooking” I begin to worry about that iron skillet.

Most speakers say that phrase with love or reverence. But that’s not what I hear.  I hear nostalgia for foodways that are long gone.  And, disrespect for the Southern food of this moment.  Not to mention, the unspoken rebuke that a skillet that isn’t turning out sawmill gravy or slices of country ham, ought to be forgotten or given away.

Even though fried chicken the way my grandmothers and great grandmothers knew how to make is long gone from my repertoire, the skillet I inherited from them is still in daily use, all thanks to recipes like Ashley Christensen’s Oyster Mushrooms and Asparagus with Sherry and Cream, Shuai Wang’s recipe for Brown Butter Radishes and Greens, Skillet Fried Turnip Green Pizza from Vivian Howard, and Vishwesh Bhatt’s Okra and Potato Hash.

Some 40 Southern food and beverage folk are at the center of Charleston Wine and Food’s closing celebration, Southern Renaissance. Not many of them turn out “traditional Southern cooking.”  Rather, like Nina Compton, they interpret St. Lucia by way of New Orleans, like Frank Stitt, they apply French technique to the agricultural bounty of Cullman, Alabama, or like Eddie Hernandez they fold the spices of Monterrey, Mexico into Southern turnip greens.

To be sure, Southern Renaissance might be dismissed as clever marketing. Or it could be that Charleston Wine and Food is on to something - a very real awakening of Southern creativity.

Music, art, fashion, literature, and food – the cultural output of this place -- do seem to be having a moment. I’ve listened to both The Alabama Shakes and St Paul and the Broken Bones as I wr0te this piece.  On my walls hang work from Blair Hobbs, Amy Evans, and Adrienne Brown David. I have a Holly Aiken purse and closet full of Natalie Chanin scarves and wraps.  My bedside table holds the novels of Jesmyn Ward, a memoir by Kiese Laymon, and Ronni Lundy’s Victuals.

The men and women cooking and mixing and pouring on Sunday night showcase a constantly evolving South, one that accommodates new immigrants and adopts new traditions.  All claim the South as their own and together they are crafting the 21st century version of traditional Southern food.  Won’t you join us?

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Penne with Sausage, Chicken, and Arugula

Recipe by: Jacques Larson, Wild Olive and The Obstinate Daughter

(Makes 4 servings)

8oz Penne pasta

2 (4-6oz) pre-cooked boneless/skinless chicken breasts (grilled, baked, or sauteed)

6oz Sweet Italian Sausage (crumbled)

3 cloves of Garlic

1/2 cup of White Wine

2 tablespoons of Butter

2 tablespoons of Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1 cup of Heavy Cream

1/2 cup of Grated Parmesan

1 quart of Packed Arugula (2 good handfuls)

Salt and Cracked Black Pepper to taste

  1. In a large pot, bring 6 quarts of water to a boil with 3 tablespoons of salt.
  2. In a large sauté pan, heat olive oil and add 3 garlic cloves smashed flat with the back of a knife. Once brown, remove the garlic from the pan, while reserving the oil. Add crumbled sausage and cook until it begins to brown. At this time, add your penne to the boiling, salted water. Cook for about 10 minutes or until al dente. Make sure to reserve at least 1 cup of pasta water.
  3. Once the pasta is dropped, de-glaze the sauté pan with the browned sausage with white wine. Reduce the wine by half. Once reduced, add the heavy cream. Bring the cream and sausage to a boil. Reduce the heat and add the pre-cooked chicken. Toss in the pan to begin to warm the chicken through. At this point, the pasta should be close to done. Reserve some of the pasta cooking water and strain the penne, once al dente.
  4. Add the penne to the large sauté pan or, if not big enough to hold everything, transfer the sausage/chicken and cream mixture to the stockpot. Toss all ingredients in a pan and add butter. Check the consistency of the pasta and add pasta water as needed to achieve desired creaminess (probably about 1 cup of water). Add arugula and wilt it in the pan. Divide pasta into 4 bowls. Check seasoning. Add salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with parmesan cheese, serve, and enjoy!
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Out of the Lowcountry with Reem Assil

By: Sydney Gallimore

Get ready folks because we’re just about a month away from the kick off of my favorite time of the year: the Charleston Wine + Food festival! This year’s festival is slated to be bigger than ever, and while I’m always excited to see my favorite Charleston chefs, having moved to DC recently, I am especially excited to get to meet all of the out-of-town chefs coming in for the festival.

In that vein, I took the time to speak with James Beard Award semifinalist Reem Assil of Reem’s in California. Reem is a Palestinian-Syrian chef who uses her blended heritage to and talent for baking to bring together her three passions: food, community, and social justice. I had a wonderful time speaking with her and can’t wait to meet her in person at the festival!

Growing Up On Hummus and Mac + Cheese

Reem: I grew up in Palestinian-Syrian household. My parents emigrated in the early 80s. Mom grew up in Lebanon most of her life… that’s where my parents met. My household was very Arab growing up, but I lived in a little suburb outside of Boston. It was a fascinating juxtaposition of Arab and Americana. I always say that I grew up on hummus and macaroni and cheese.

Breaking Into Baking

Reem: I grew up with that traditional value that you go to school to be a doctor or an engineer… so my parents were very concerned when I said that I wanted to be a baker. Originally I got a job at a non-profit but, food has always been the backdrop of everything I did. I got into baking recreationally and then decided to quit my job and pursue it full time. I enrolled in a baking & pastry 2 year program and landed a job about 1 year in at a bakery co-op where I learned how to be both a baker and an owner. I aways knew I wanted to start my own thing and used everything I learned in those contexts to learn about my own cuisine and how those techniques overlap.

International Inspiration

Reem: Going to Lebanon and seeing the bakeries there… I just fell in love with that feeling. Those street corner bakers are anchors in the community. The matriarchs in the family were always the alchemists, creating something out of nothing. That’s what baking is all about. The thing that really sets the bakeries in Lebanon apart is the theatrics of everything. It’s like a party. You go into a bakery and it’s not serious, it’s an extended part of your family, very communal, something that is rare to find in the US anymore.

Baking Without Borders

Reem: Bread is my inspiration because every culture has some way of breaking bread. It’s a lifeline in the history of my culture, but there are so many elements of bread that transcend any culture: the smell, generations of people going in and waiting for their pastries, kneading dough… you see those things in a lot of cultures. I wanted to create that in a way that spoke to my culture specifically.

Putting On A Show

Reem: When I started, we were in farmers markets. It was literally an open kitchen in front of everyone, and I think part of the attraction is getting to see your food being made from scratch, You see people stretching the dough, putting it on a pillow, and then cooking on the griddle, and then you wrapping it around fresh veggies. Customers get to see everything happening and all the workers working together, with the Arabic music playing… it’s very immersive. We wanted it to be accessible to more people but still be a very high level, high-quality food experience.

More Than A Restaurant

Reem: When I started, I was very intentional. Having come from a social justice background, I’ve seen how people, especially immigrants from the Arab world, were hiding their food and marketing it as Mediterranean to be more palatable to American sensibilities. I made a conscious decision to market my food as Arab, which some people think of as being a “bad word,” but I really wanted to emphasize that it’s not a bad word and make Arabs feel proud to be Arab and celebrate our culture. I feel like I succeeded in helping to make the word “Arab” more mainstream. For better or for worse, we’re in a time when people really want to work for social justice and become galvanized. We now have allies and supporters and we’ve benefited from people wanting to understand the intersections between food and culture and social justice. I have a platform. My food is not just the food, it’s everything around the food: the story behind it, the spaces I create, it all makes a difference.

First Time at CHSWFF

Reem: I’m really looking forward to my trip to Charleston. This region of the country is super fascinating to me. I took a trip to the deep south when I was young, and I am so fascinated by the history, the struggles, and especially how that history is told through food. I haven’t met a lot of folks through the food world from that area, so I’m really looking forward to that. I’m excited to be having these harder conversations about food and access and race–these timely conversations that people are starting to have–and to be able to have the space and avenue to share my perspective is very exciting. These events are always interesting, as you never know what to expect. All of these opportunities, I use to learn and grow as a person and a chef. I hope to learn and be inspired and bring that back with me to my restaurants.

Tickets for Reem’s Breaking Bread workshop during the festival are still available, so get them before they sell out!

Sydney Gallimore is a food writer based out of Washington, DC. She is also a member of the Charleston Wine + Food Brand Ambassador team. You can connect with her on Instagram at @queenofthefoodage and on her blog, queenofthefoodage.com.

*Note: this interview was edited for clarity and space*

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