Chef Frank Stitt shares his award with his wife, Pardis

Harry Root, owner of Grassroots Wine and a longtime friend of Frank’s, introduced him with a beautiful and touching speech, which he’s been kind enough to share with us so those who were not present at Opening Ceremonies to hear it may enjoy it as well. The 2013 Food + Wine With a View dinner was a tribute to Stitt, who selected chefs to participate in the event. A special tribute video with interviews from chefs, winemakers and friends whose lives Frank has touched was produced and screened at the dinner. You can find the video on the Festival’s YouTube page here.

Harry Root’s speech follows.

What were you doing in 1978?  I’m going to drop a few names here if you don’t mind.  Had you spent the last few years in Berkeley, California working for Alice Waters at Chez Panisse?  Were you living in the South of France helping Richard Olney write his iconic Time-Life series on French Cooking?  I am talking about THE Richard Olney- the original Bohemian American Expat who inspired a legion of American chefs and wine professionals- including introducing Kermit Lynch to many of his first producers.  Were you dining at Vieux Telegraph, exploring French markets with Jeremiah Tower, or prepping meals at Richard’s home in Provence?

Thirty-four years ago, Frank Stitt left his employ with Richard and returned from France with the goal of turning his inspiration into the finest restaurant in Alabama. And with the opening of Highlands Bar and Grill in 1982, did he ever succeed.  Winner of the 2001 James Beard Award for best chef in the Southeast as well as finalist for the past 4 years for the James Beard national award for best restaurant; Founding Member of the Southern Foodways Alliance as well as recipient of the SFA’s Lifetime Achievement Award in 2006; and for much of the 1980’s holder of the unofficial title of best restaurant in Atlanta (did I mention Highlands is 150 miles away in Birmingham?), I am here today to honor Frank Stitt and his gifts to Southern Cuisine.

Frank’s national renown is certainly a tribute to all things southern and good about our incredible food culture. His impact to his home community in Birmingham and the entire state of Alabama is where his version of food heroism has had the biggest influence. Indeed life changing impact, as Frank’s early commitment to seeking better local produce, fish and meats helped create real businesses and even developed entire community economies.

Take, for example, Greg Abrams.  Twenty-two years ago, Greg showed up at Frank’s back door with a fresh catch of gulf fish that he drove up from his own boat in Panama City that day.  At the time and still today, most commercial fishermen sold their fish to brokers; who send them to warehouses in Atlanta; where they are processed and warehoused and distributed around the Southeast and beyond.  Greg felt that no fish should be warehoused and that the best of his catch deserved better.  He found his first customer 5 hours away when he found Frank.  Today, Greg owns 13 boats and supports 20 others.  He has built an empire based on how Frank inspired him to think: that it’s worthwhile financially and otherwise to pursue the right foods; caught or raised close to home; and celebrated with a nod to family and community.  I talked to Greg about this earlier this week and his only lament about his relationship with Frank is that he lost his original receipts from that first sale- scratched on a scrap of notebook paper.  He had intended to frame them, but they were destroyed in Hurricane Katrina.

Frank has also tremendously inspired me.  I own a small wine company and it is and is my times spent tasting and traveling with Frank, that I have cherish the most about my job.  Not many folks know, that in addition to running three of the best kitchens in the Southeast, Frank also oversees the wine programs in each of his restaurants from selecting, to training, and service.  As my company has grown into its name: Grassroots Wine- it is Frank Stitt who has inspired me that it is possible to make a huge difference in farming communities globally by the way we act locally.  Along the way, he has pioneered exciting new wine movements that just make sense with everything we love about the South.  From Grower Champagne to exciting new wines from California, Frank Stitt has led the way.

If you have never been to Highlands, one of my favorite things about it is how easy it is to describe: simply sublime. From the atmosphere, the bar, to the service, the wine list, and of course the food- everything is perfect. There is no foam; gastro trickery; or gimmicks- simply perfectly-crafted, classic Southern and French-inspired dishes prepared and served seamlessly as if by a long-lost best friend who you haven’t seen in years somehow became one of the world’s great chefs and is serving you dinner.  That’s all. This is in large part because of Frank’s commitment to excellence and also his lovely wife Pardis who I really can’t say enough about.  She, like Frank is a true southern gem, and I am among the legions of folks who appreciate her and her contributions to the South.

If Highlands, Bottega and Chez Fon Fon were his only accomplishments, I would be proud to stand in front of you and honor the man responsible for converting the Southside of Birmingham into a Southern Dining Mecca, however, his restaurants are not the pinnacle of Frank’s success. I argue that his greatest achievement has been his influence on our entire region and indeed the entire country. Let’s go back to my comment about being the best chef in Atlanta. Happily for all of us, Frank lost that title years ago to the likes of Ann Quatrano, Linton Hopkins, Hugh Acheson, Stephen Satterfield and others- all of whom are not just inspired by Frank, but challenged by him to this day. We also see his regional influence here in Charleston as well in literally all of our top restaurants.

Frank’s influence reaches out nationally as well. New York and California- have you heard that Southern Food Culture is hot? Of course you have! The excellence of our food culture- the original American cuisine- is a huge part of the movement in our country to eat more better and local food. To appreciate the local farmer, fisherman, and rancher. To thoughtfully employee our local cultures onto our tables every day.  Frank recognized this 30 years ago and has supported and inspired every aspect of our food culture- from fishermen, to farmers, inspiring chefs, and certainly at least one wine purveyor.  In researching this discussion my favorite quote was not from one of the legions of chefs who have worked in his Kitchens, but from Rob McDaniel at Spring House in Alexander City, Alabama who replied when I asked if he had worked for Frank: “I have not but like every other young southern cook I have read his books and followed him for many years.”

Southern food culture is changing the way we think and act about our communities in the Southeast.  Whether it is directly by supporting local fishermen and farmers like Greg Abrams or Mark Marhefka and or revitalizing our communities like Birmingham’s Southside or Ashley Christensen’s projects in Raleigh.  For most of the South, the impact and influence of our food culture is steeped in history, yet relatively new.  But in Alabama, Frank has been braising this stew for 30 years.

Thirty years ago, the Southern food culture was an afterthought in the nation’s food intelligentsia’s eyes. Today, I argue it’s the most relevant and original of the cuisines of America. We owe this in large part to the passion and influence of our standard bearer, Frank Stitt.

Frank has been to all but one of the 8 Charleston Wine and Food Festivals in some capacity or another- mostly cooking, but also as an author and as a wine personality.  His mere presence lent the Festival credibility in its early days, but his engaged involvement and gentlemanly criticism has been integral in pushing the festival toward more and better chefs and wine personalities.  In that course, he has helped this Festival become the defining Wine and Food Festival of the South.

I am pleased and proud to present the Frank Stitt National Chef Award to my friend and mentor, Frank Stitt.

Pavilion Rooftop Bar on the top of the Market Pavilion Hotel (Downtown)

Charleston weather is never really that bad, and when weʼre suffering from the “morning after the night before,” we head over to Market Pavilion and order the Tuna Tower. Itʼs a combination of tuna tartare, lump crabmeat, and avocado … itʼs pretty ridiculous. Oh and of course we order their bloodys … some of the best in Charleston!

Home Team BBQ (Sullivanʼs Island)

I mean it goes without saying that Home Team doesnʼt serve anything that sucks, but weʼre partial to the BBQ Nachos …. itʼs a gooey cheesy meatfest of awesome. Wash it back with a sweet tea or let Taryn or Sally mix up something from behind the bar!!

Marina Variety Store Restaurant (Downtown)

Itʼs like that famous mullet hairdo: business in the front/party in the back, only here the party is downstairs while business rocks upstairs with some of the best brunch in

Charleston! The MVSR has been kicking around the City Marina forever, so while not the prettiest gem, the food makes up for it all! Canʼt go wrong with the Crab Cake Benedict with a side of bacon …. and if youʼre lucky, Bambi will draw a smiley face on your go-cup of coffee … or, maybe thatʼs just for us? Anyway, Variety Store, aww yeahh!

Midtown Bar & Grill (Downtown)

Ok chances are we probably just walked out of here a few hours ago…. this place is a staple of the Upper King bars. However, come lunchtime, the crowds are non- existent …. which means itʼs prime time to have the guys cook you up a batch of their smoked wings. Theyʼre hickory smoked on-site for 6 hours, then flash fried and rolled in butter and hot sauce ….. itʼs the ultimate. Order up a Colorado Koolaide to go with it and youʼll be in business! Done, next!

Taco Boy (Downtown)

So, last spring we figured out that if you ride your bike to Taco Boy, you get a free margarita….. so that was kind of a no-brainer to knock off the dust from the night before. Order up the salsa trio for an app, then rock out a Kimchi taco on Bibb lettuce and an Americano taco on flour or corn tortilla …. or maybe swap the salsa trio for the app trio of salsa, queso, and guac … the guac is incredible! Anyway, we eat here probably way too much but it just never gets old.

Smoky Oak Taproom (James Island)

This is a hidden little gem in the middle of James Island at the intersection of Camp Road and Dillʼs Bluff….. youʼll know youʼre there because youʼll be able to smell the woodsmoke. They have elevendy-billion beers there, so take your pick. Hands down, our fave hangover food is the Stuffed Jalapeños …. picture a hollowed out jalapeño stuffed with fresh crabmeat and cheese, which is then wrapped in applewood bacon and smoked for a few hours. Mmmm hmmm, theyʼre addictive as hell ….

Glazed Gourmet Donuts (Downtown)

We would be remiss if we didnʼt include the home of the fresh made Maple Bacon Glazed or Berry Goat Cheese Donut! Itʼs right up King Street from the Festival and if by chance we were to wake up late and not have time to rock one of the establishments mentioned above, you can bet weʼll be in here loading up. I mean, Maple Bacon??? Yeah, that just happened ….

FIG’s Nine Vegetable Salad (photo via Charleston City Paper)

Cookbook authors Matt and Ted Lee spent most of their childhood in Charleston, but both have lived elsewhere over the years. While Ted currently resides in New York City, Matt recently returned to Charleston. The two recently shared a list of their favorite Charleston restaurant dishes right now — consider it your dining guide for your next trip to Charleston! And don’t forget to pick up a copy of their newest book, “The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen,” for more of their Charleston favorites.

- Whole Fried Flounder with Hoppin’ John, Dave’s Carry Out

- Goat Pozole, Two Boroughs Larder

- Local Oyster Bucket, Fleet Landing (Saturdays)

- Short Ribs, Lana

- Lady Baltimore Cupcake, Sugar Bakeshop

- Steamed Clams with Tomatoes, Fennel and Garlic, Slightly North of Broad

- Pulled Squash Sandwich, Butcher & Bee

- Verdicchio Braised Mushrooms, Trattoria Lucca

- Nine-vegetable Salad, FIG

- Shrimp Toast, Xiao Bao Biscuit

While food may be the main attraction on the festival weekend, the many events call for a little shopping and some fast beauty fixes.  From shoes to dresses and blowouts to cosmetics, here’s a round up of a few of my favorite local Charleston spots to hit…

Carrie (right) shopping at retail store Billy Reid, located at 150 King Street

Whether it’s daytime events or late night after parties, shopping with Shelby Hightower at Billy Reid on lower King Street is a must.  Sip bourbon and let her help you shop among this CFDA winning designers impeccably tailored collection. For shoes, Charleston staple Bob Ellis or look to Hampden owner Stacey Smallwood’s newest accessory store James. Looking for a place to unwind and revitalize? I head straight to the Urban Nivana Spa located in Wentworth Mansion for a facial with Patti and if I have enough time, an eyelash tint too – there’s nothing better for looking bright-eyed.  When the weekend ahead calls for lots of late nights, it’s a quick fix for looking refreshed.  I also can’t do without the Chanel concealer from Blue Mercury and they are always happy to do a quick makeover.

Carrie getting her hair done at Tease Dry Bar, located at 430 King Street

Tease Dry Bar, a new blow dry bar on Upper King Street, is my go-to for the perfect “do” without the time commitment.  Relax with a glass of wine and choose your style from their menu.  It’s truly wash, blow and go.  Need a manicure? Head to East Bay Nails on East Bay Street where walk-ins are no problem.

Need more tips while you’re in town? Come see me at the Charleston Entertains tent on Saturday, March 2 from 11:30 AM to 12:30 PM where I’ll be demoing recipes from my cookbook – Callie’s Biscuits and Southern Traditions: Heirloom Recipes from Our Family Kitchen - debuting Fall 2013.

Here’s where you can find my favorite spots:

Billy Reid, at 150 King Street

Bob Ellis Shoes, at 332 King Street

Hampden Clothing, at 314 King Street

Urban Nirvana Spa in The Wentworth Mansion, at 141 Wentworth Street

Blue Mercury, at 255 King Street

Tease Dry Bar, at 430 King Street

East Bay Nails, at 334 East Bay Street

The story of Matt and Ted Lee starts like any other little boys growing up. When the boys were still young, their parents made the move from New York City to Charleston. In the latest issue of My Charleston Magazine, they describe growing up in Charleston as being surrounded by the “sport” of catching seafood with raw chicken necks, discovering boiled peanuts at the Charleston Royals baseball game, and even learning new Southern lingo.

The Lee brothers may have been oblivious to the culinary lean to these new experiences during their youth, but little did they know that the Lowcountry traditions would stick with them. Matt and Ted decided to head back North to attend college, which led them to create “The Lee Bros. Boiled Peanuts Catalogue,” their first mail-order catalogue making the Southern foods  they grew up loving, like stone-ground grits, fig preserves, and, of course, boiled peanuts, available to food lovers across the country.

Today, the brothers are contributing editors at Travel + Leisure and frequently write food stories for Bon Appétit, The New York Times, Fine Cooking and Food & Wine, among other publications. Even more exciting, the Lee brothers will be revealing their newest cookbook, “The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen,” at the BB&T Charleston Wine + Food Festival®! Be sure to look for the Lee brothers in the Heirloom Book Company Author Book Signing Tent, located in the Culinary Village, to have them sign your copy of the cookbook.

Here’s a sneak preview of the many amazing recipes you can expect to find in Matt and Ted Lee’s new cookbook, “The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen!”

Skillet Asparagus with Grapefruit

Serves: 4

Time: 25 minutes

This recipe romances March in Charleston, a stellar month: the asparagus we get from Johns Island is at its slenderest, tenderest peak; the grapefruits are just falling off trees downtown, on their way out of season. The house and garden tour season is in full swing with azaleas, dogwoods, and lilies in full bloom; the camellias are just over the hill, going out with a bang, dropping explosions of petals on the flagstone.

In the Charleston vegetable pantheon, asparagus typically takes a back seat to the collards, shelled peas, and squashes, but it shouldn’t. In the 1880s, a settlement of French immigrants in Mount Pleasant, just across the Cooper River from Charleston, established a commercial asparagus farm whose harvest became in short order the priciest, most sought-after asparagus available in the urban markets of the North. We’re guessing the reason for its popularity was that it was grown close to the Cooper River; our own favorite local asparagus comes from the vegetable garden of friends of ours, about 300 yards from the creek bank, and we swear that the salty air gives the stalks a quality that makes them tastier than most Central American or California-grown grocery-store spears.

This recipe will make your asparagus shine wherever it hails from. We simply char the asparagus to smoky lusciousness in a large skillet, then strew grapefruit segments over it with a vinaigrette made with the sweet-and-sour juice left over from segmenting the fruit.

1 grapefruit, preferably a ruby variety

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon canola, vegetable, or grapeseed oil, plus more if necessary

1 pound medium asparagus, trimmed of any woody ends

Freshly ground black pepper

1. With a zester or Microplane grater, scrape some grapefruit zest from the skin of the fruit for garnish, and reserve. Segment the grapefruit: trim off the bottom and top of the fruit with a knife so that you have a flat surface upon which to rest it as you peel it. Peel the fruit by placing the tip of a sharp knife just inside the border where the pith meets the pulp, and slicing down with firm, clean strokes following the curvature of the fruit. Repeat until the entire fruit has been peeled. Then, over a bowl or wide board to catch all of the juice, gently cut the segments of pulp with a sharp knife by slicing toward the core as close as possible to the membranes that separate the segments. Once you’ve extracted all the citrus segments, squeeze the membranes to release any remaining juice and then discard the membranes. Gently strain the segments, reserving segments and juice in separate bowls. Add ¼ teaspoon salt, the vinegar, 1 tablespoon of water, and the mustard to the bowl with the grapefruit juice and whisk to combine. Pour in the olive oil, whisking to emulsify.

2. Pour the canola oil into a large skillet over high heat, and when it smokes, add half of the asparagus and ¼ teaspoon salt, and cover. Cook, partly covered, until the asparagus is blackened on one side, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn the asparagus in the pan, cover, and cook until the asparagus is thoroughly blackened, 3 minutes more; transfer to a serving platter. Repeat with the remaining asparagus, adding another teaspoon of oil to the pan (if it’s become too dry) and seasoning with salt.

3. When all the asparagus is on the platter, scatter the grapefruit segments evenly over the asparagus. If the dressing has broken, whisk to re-emulsify, pour it over the asparagus, and grind some black pepper over the top. Garnish the platter with the reserved zest, and serve.

**Visit the Festival’s Facebook page for a chance to win a copy of “The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen!”